Roof Repair Advice · Heswall

Why Is My Roof Leaking Around a Roof Window?

In nearly every case the window is fine. What has failed is the kit that weathers it into the roof, or it is not a leak at all.

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HomeRoof Repairs ChesterRoof Repairs HeswallWhy Is My Roof Leaking Around a Roof Window?
The short version
  • The flashing kit, not the window, is almost always the cause
  • Water on the inside of the glass in cold weather is condensation
  • A kit fitted for the wrong covering leaks from day one
  • On a big roof, check what is uphill before blaming the window

It Is Almost Never the Window

A modern roof window is a sealed unit in a frame, and the frame is not what keeps water out of the roof. The flashing kit does that: a set of preformed pieces that weather the window into the surrounding covering - an apron below, side sections, a head flashing above, and soakers or a gutter detail at the top.

When water appears around a roof window, that kit is the first and usually the last place to look. Replacing the window changes nothing if the kit is what has failed, and it is a very expensive way of finding that out.

So the first question to ask anybody quoting for a replacement unit is what they found wrong with the flashing.

Why Is My Roof Leaking Around a Roof Window? - Roofline Solutions, Chester

The Four Things That Actually Fail

The wrong kit for the covering. Flashing kits come in versions for flat coverings such as slate and for profiled coverings such as interlocking tile, and they are not interchangeable. A flat-profile kit under a deeply profiled tile leaves gaps at every roll. That leaks from the day it was fitted, and on a house that has been re-covered since the window went in it is a common finding.

The head flashing and what is above it. Water coming down the slope has to be taken round the window. If the head detail has been compressed, bedded in mortar rather than formed, or has debris sitting behind it, it overflows into the roof. This is the commonest genuine leak.

Soakers or side sections cut short. Same failure as at any abutment: the piece that should carry water out over the covering does not reach far enough.

Sealant. A previous repair with mastic around the frame. It sheds water for a season, cracks, and then holds water against the joint.

The One That Is Not a Leak

Water on the inside of the glass, or running down the internal frame and onto the reveal, in cold weather, is condensation.

A roof window is the coldest surface in a room and it is usually in a bathroom, a kitchen, a loft conversion or a stairwell - places with high humidity and often poor ventilation. Warm moist air meets cold glass and condenses, exactly as it does on a car windscreen.

The tells are clear once you know them. It appears on cold nights rather than during rain. It is worst in the morning. It is on the glass and the inner frame rather than on the plaster around the opening. And it is worse when the window has a blind, because the blind traps a layer of still cold air against the glass.

A leak wets the plaster of the reveal and the ceiling around the window. Condensation wets the glass and the frame. That distinction saves people a great deal of money.

The fix is ventilation and moisture control - using the trickle vent if there is one, opening it after a shower, and not sealing the room up. Not roofing.

The Heswall Version

The houses here are large and much extended, with roofs that step, turn and change level, and they tend to have several roof windows rather than one.

That raises a specific trap: water appearing at a roof window that is not the source. On a complicated roof, water entering at a valley, an abutment or a saddle higher up runs down the rafters and finds the first thing that penetrates the ceiling - which is very often the window opening.

So on a roof with several levels, the rule is the same as anywhere: find the highest point staining reaches in the roof space before deciding what is wrong. If the staining starts above the window and runs down to it, the window is the exit, not the entrance.

It is also why replacing a roof window on the strength of a damp reveal is a decision worth resisting until somebody has been in the loft.

Roof repair work by Roofline Solutions in Chester and the Wirral

What a Proper Repair Looks Like

The tiles or slates around the window come off. The existing kit comes out. A kit matched to the actual covering goes in, with the head detail formed properly and the side sections lapping correctly over the covering below.

Anything that was sealed gets the sealant removed rather than added to.

And the head detail gets checked for debris, because on a roof with trees over it - and Heswall has plenty - the space above a roof window collects exactly the same leaf litter that blocks a valley.

Ask for photographs. None of this is visible from inside the room, and the difference between a kit that has been properly formed and one that has been persuaded into place is entirely in the detail.

Not sure what you are looking at? Describe it and we will tell you what it is likely to be — 07464 259566, WhatsApp, or Evensbuddy@yahoo.com. If water is coming in now, please call rather than email.
FAQs

Common Questions

Do I need a new roof window?
Almost certainly not. The unit is rarely the problem - the flashing kit that weathers it into the roof is. Ask what was found wrong with the flashing before agreeing to a replacement.
There is water on the inside of the glass. Is that a leak?
Almost always condensation, particularly if it appears on cold nights rather than during rain and is on the glass and frame rather than the plaster around them. Ventilation is the answer, not roofing.
My roof was re-covered after the window was fitted. Is that relevant?
Very. Flashing kits are made for flat coverings or for profiled ones and they are not interchangeable. A kit left in place when the covering changed is a common cause of a window that has leaked ever since.
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Roofline Solutions, Elton, Chester

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Elton
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